Ring of Kerry & Dingle Peninsula

While Carrie, Flor and Alex were off to Barcelona for combination business and pleasure, we were able to do 5 days in the Southwest. The drive down held little excitement-seems we have seen much of the interior here. South of Killarney, our first stop was at the Muckross House and Gardens. Unfortunately it was closed for reworking, so we had lunch in their cafe, which was open along with their gift shop.

On to Kenmare, where the Ring of Kerry tour is to start. While traveling the road between Killarney and Kenmare we passed through Moll's Gap and Ladies View. We enjoyed Kenmare-small and quaint and obviously benefiting from tourism. We walked the town, visiting several shops and then drove some of the back roads. We are amazed at the places where they put the new homes-on small, narrow roads on hillsides with great views. "Holiday" homes are everywhere, especially near any water. Not too unlike TC and the Michigan coast. One big difference is that many developments are for investment by one person or business and homes are rented out 6-8 weeks a year. Some of these small communities are starting to object to being overrun by these developments which of course take up some of the better parcels of land and views. Dingle specifically had some sort of referendum to ban such within the town.

Our night was spent in a B&B at the end of a lane with a view of the Kenmare River. Owned by a young couple who had recently returned from a skiing venture in Switzerland.

We were off the next day along the north side of the Kenmare River. As is our norm, took several side trips to see water front spots. One in particular was Oysterbed Pier, which had a mansion at its edge with its own concrete dock. Another stop was at a ring fort, one of many around Ireland. Like the many rock walls, the fort was constructed of rock without any mortar. This one had a moat around it to protect it from attack.

One warning we did not have to adhere to was buses. During the summer, tour buses are abundant on the ring road, which much of the time is 1.5 car widths. The buses have the right of way, so cars have to find the best way out. We were advised to do the ring clockwise as the buses do the other and we wouldn't be held up behind them. Also we would be on the water side of the road for better viewing. Being off season, we did not see one bus.

One adventure we did not get to do was a trip to the Skellig islands, one of which had been inhabited by monks from 600 to 1100 AD. At 700 feet tall and 600 steps from water to plateau, it represents an amazing place. Boats do go in good weather and let one meander up the 600 steps, but oh gosh, they weren't running.

We did venture over one pass which locals claim to be the highest point in Ireland that you can drive a car. We spent the night in Portmaggie, another small touristy town. This night our view was of a shipping channel and Valentia Island, who's claim to fame is the point from where the first transatlantic communication cable was first started in the 1800's.

Next day we were off to Dingle, which is supposed to be the better of the drives and proved to be true. We stopped in Tralee for a town walk and tour of the Kerry Museum. Lent some background on how the area was developed and how people lived during its development.

Drove on to the town of Dingle, near the end of the peninsula, and on Dingle Bay. The B&B this night was right in town within walking distance of all the pubs and late night music. A larger fishing business here to accompany tourism. Friday night wasn't too busy, but Saturday was a blast. Turned out that a well known Gaelic footballer lives in the area and sponsors an annual tournament. We were driving the peninsula when it was going on, but night life was a bit more interesting with all the players on the streets and in the pubs.

Decided we didn't belong with the young crowd, so sought out with the help of a local, a pub with traditional music around the corner from our B&B. Not much of a crowd when we got there at 10, but by 11 it was packed. One group of dozen or so Irish men were from Cork-said to be getting reacquainted with their Irishness. A bit of Bush bashing went on when we were discovered. They love Clinton, "Dollar Bill", that is.(called that here because of all he now makes speaking).

The trip around the Dingle was definitely the most interesting drive we have been on. We had a lovely, sunny day, which not only rare, but a welcome sight. Made viewing some of the remote places a lot nicer not to mention driving on the narrow, winding roads a lot safer. Hard to describe all we saw, but when I get the pictures up, you will be able to see what I mean. Of course two of the must see places were the homes that Robert Mitchum stayed in while filming Ryan's Daughter and Nicole and Tom stayed in while filming Far and Away. Much "to do" around town, especially for Ryan's Daughter, which is credited for putting the town on the map.

Sunday, we decided we had done as much damage as we could and started back to Dublin via many more back roads. They even have "scenic coastal" roads identified, which though a bit tougher on the driver, much more interesting then the interior "highways".

We had been warned that the Irish language was primary in Dingle, but other then many signs in only Gaelic, speaking English was definitely not a problem. Learned fast on the roads what "slow down" was in Gaelic-"go mall". We actually ran into more Irish in a small town on the way home when we stopped for dinner.

We have extended our stay until March 24th to further help out with Alex. Business here is taking a lot of time for both Carrie and Flor. Future excursions will likely be close in. We now will be able to take in St. Patrick's Day festivities as well as a Marxist Festival conducted by the Socialist Workers in Dublin.

I've left out a lot of what we experienced these 5 days, but maybe the pictures will help fill in blanks.

Later!